Mont Blanc Ascent via the Grands Mulets

    Ascent route

    Mont Blanc Ascent via the Grands Mulets

    The Grands Mulets route is a historic Mont Blanc itinerary, often associated with spring ski touring. It climbs the north side via the Bossons Glacier sector and the Grands Mulets refuge — this is the route taken by Jacques Balmat and Dr Michel Paccard on the very first ascent, on 8 August 1786.

    Written by Victor Michelhistory enthusiast and passionate alpinist based in Chamonix. Published May 7, 2026 · Updated August 3, 2026

    Quick summary

    Historic, glacial route on Mont Blanc's north side, often associated with spring ski mountaineering. This route requires excellent terrain-reading skill, following the exact line of the 1786 first ascent.

    Key takeaways

    • Route of the very first ascent of Mont Blanc, on 8 August 1786
    • Grands Mulets refuge, at around 3,051 m altitude
    • First refuge built in 1853, rebuilt larger in 1897
    • North side / Chamonix, often done as spring ski mountaineering

    Technical data

    • SideNorth / Chamonix
    • RefugeGrands Mulets, ≈ 3,051 m
    • HistoryRoute of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, on 8 August 1786
    • CharacterHistoric, glacial, ski mountaineering
    • ForExperienced alpinists or ski mountaineers

    Specific risks

    • Crevasses
    • Seracs
    • Route varies with conditions

    Huts and key points

    • Grands Mulets Refuge

    Frequently asked questions

    Sources

    • IALP Mountain Museums — Refuge des Grands Mulets
    • Wikipedia — Refuge des Grands Mulets

    Other ascent routes

    Going further

    Safety: Conditions in the high mountains change rapidly. The information on this page replaces neither the judgement of a high-mountain guide, nor weather bulletins, nor official information from huts and mountain safety organisations.

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