When was the first Grands Mulets refuge built?

In 1853, on the initiative of the commune of Chamonix: a small 4.25 x 2.12 m building, built in the valley then carried up plank by plank by Chamonix guides.

Is the current refuge the one from 1853?

No, a much larger new refuge, able to accommodate around fifty people, was built in 1897 on the Grands Mulets rocks.

At what altitude is the Grands Mulets refuge?

Around 3,051 m, on a rocky island amid the glaciers of the north side.

Can the Grands Mulets route be skied?

Yes, it's a classic spring ski mountaineering itinerary, provided you can read the glacial terrain well (crevasses, seracs).

Cordée traversant un glacier crevassé près du refuge historique des Grands Mulets, séracs et ponts de neige

Ascent route

Mont Blanc Ascent via the Grands Mulets

Q: Why is the Grands Mulets route historic?

It's the route followed by Jacques Balmat and Dr Michel Paccard on the very first ascent of Mont Blanc, on 8 August 1786.

The Grands Mulets route is a historic Mont Blanc itinerary, often associated with spring ski touring. It climbs the north side via the Bossons Glacier sector and the Grands Mulets refuge — this is the route taken by Jacques Balmat and Dr Michel Paccard on the very first ascent, on 8 August 1786.

Written by Victor Michel — history enthusiast and passionate alpinist based in Chamonix. Published May 7, 2026 · Updated August 26, 2026 · 2 min read

Quick summary

Historic, glacial route on Mont Blanc's north side, often associated with spring ski mountaineering. This route requires excellent terrain-reading skill, following the exact line of the 1786 first ascent.

Key takeaways

Route of the very first ascent of Mont Blanc, on 8 August 1786
Grands Mulets refuge, at around 3,051 m altitude
First refuge built in 1853, rebuilt larger in 1897
North side / Chamonix, often done as spring ski mountaineering

Technical data

SideNorth / Chamonix
RefugeGrands Mulets, ≈ 3,051 m
HistoryRoute of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, on 8 August 1786
CharacterHistoric, glacial, ski mountaineering
ForExperienced alpinists or ski mountaineers

Specific risks

Crevasses
Seracs
Route varies with conditions

Huts and key points

Grands Mulets Refuge

Frequently asked questions

Sources

IALP Mountain Museums — Refuge des Grands Mulets
Wikipedia — Refuge des Grands Mulets

Other ascent routes

Goûter Normal Route Three Peaks

Going further

Chamonix-Mont Blanc speed record: the Equy and Jacquemoud feat Glacier des Bossons: access, chairlift and hiking Jacques Balmat, first to reach the summit of Mont Blanc Michel-Gabriel Paccard, co-first-ascensionist of 1786

Safety: Conditions in the high mountains change rapidly. The information on this page replaces neither the judgement of a high-mountain guide, nor weather bulletins, nor official information from huts and mountain safety organisations.

Alpiniste en pente raide au-dessus des nuages

Arête sommitale du Mont Blanc au lever du soleil