
Ascent route
Mont Blanc Ascent via the Grands Mulets
The Grands Mulets route is a historic Mont Blanc itinerary, often associated with spring ski touring. It climbs the north side via the Bossons Glacier sector and the Grands Mulets refuge — this is the route taken by Jacques Balmat and Dr Michel Paccard on the very first ascent, on 8 August 1786.
Written by Victor Michel — history enthusiast and passionate alpinist based in Chamonix. Published May 7, 2026 · Updated August 3, 2026
Quick summary
Historic, glacial route on Mont Blanc's north side, often associated with spring ski mountaineering. This route requires excellent terrain-reading skill, following the exact line of the 1786 first ascent.
Key takeaways
- Route of the very first ascent of Mont Blanc, on 8 August 1786
- Grands Mulets refuge, at around 3,051 m altitude
- First refuge built in 1853, rebuilt larger in 1897
- North side / Chamonix, often done as spring ski mountaineering
Technical data
- SideNorth / Chamonix
- RefugeGrands Mulets, ≈ 3,051 m
- HistoryRoute of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, on 8 August 1786
- CharacterHistoric, glacial, ski mountaineering
- ForExperienced alpinists or ski mountaineers
Specific risks
- Crevasses
- Seracs
- Route varies with conditions
Huts and key points
- Grands Mulets Refuge
Frequently asked questions
Sources
- IALP Mountain Museums — Refuge des Grands Mulets
- Wikipedia — Refuge des Grands Mulets
Other ascent routes
Going further
Safety: Conditions in the high mountains change rapidly. The information on this page replaces neither the judgement of a high-mountain guide, nor weather bulletins, nor official information from huts and mountain safety organisations.


