Ascent route
Mont Blanc Ascent via Gonella and Aiguilles Grises
The Italian route via Gonella and Aiguilles Grises is the normal itinerary on the Italian side: long, wild and far less frequented than the French routes.
Written by Victor Michel — history enthusiast and passionate alpinist based in Chamonix. Published May 2, 2026 · Updated July 5, 2026
Quick summary
The Italian route via Gonella and Aiguilles Grises is a long, wild and less crowded Mont Blanc ascent. It starts from Val Veny, reaches Gonella Refuge, then progresses toward Dôme Glacier, Aiguilles Grises Pass, Bionnassay Pass and the Bosses ridge.
Key takeaways
- Side: Italy / Val Veny / Courmayeur
- Refuge: Gonella
- Key passages: Miage Glacier, Dôme Glacier, Aiguilles Grises and Bionnassay passes, Bosses ridge
- Character: long, wild, less frequented
- For: enduring and acclimatized alpinists
Technical data
- SideItalian
- Starting pointVal Veny / Courmayeur
- RefugeGonella (3,071 m)
- Key passagesMiage Glacier, Gonella Refuge, Dôme Glacier, Aiguilles Grises Pass, Bionnassay Pass, Bosses ridge
- CharacterLong, wild, less frequented
- ForEnduring and acclimatized alpinists
Specific risks
- Length of the climb
- Dôme Glacier heavily crevassed late in season
- Orientation sometimes tricky
- Weather and altitude
Huts and key points
- Francesco Gonella Refuge (3,071 m)
Who is this route for?
Enduring, autonomous alpinists seeking a wild atmosphere on the Italian side.
When to avoid this route
Degraded glacial conditions in late summer, lack of experience on complex glaciers.
Alternatives
Frequently asked questions
Going further
Safety: Conditions in the high mountains change rapidly. The information on this page replaces neither the judgement of a high-mountain guide, nor weather bulletins, nor official information from huts and mountain safety organisations.
